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Never Again

I’ve been very fortunate to see a little bit of our world. A unique life of my own design allows me to fairly regularly enjoy what for many people would be “the trip of a lifetime.” Invariably, I return from these trips with a greater respect and appreciation for the countries I had visited. This is not the case for Central America. For me, the time, expense, headaches, hassle, hassle, and headaches of visiting most of Latin America far outstrip what little these countries have to offer.
 
To be fair, Mexico merits more than a few eagerly-anticipated return visits and much of Costa Rica is fully deserving of its reputation as some sort of modern-day Eden. Beyond this the garbage, filth, poverty, and incredible governmental inefficiencies are staggering.
 
I’ve never seen such widespread use of open-air garbage dumps as are found in both Mexico and Guatemala.  Acres of garbage lay rotting in shallow pits next to the roadway. Vultures circle overhead like flies above a corpse. Garbage set afire smolders for days sending putrid clouds of smoke drifting across the road and into the open windows of passing vehicles. My helmet offered no resistance at all. In El Salvador, trash was not deposited into a proper receptacle but simply thrown on the street to wash into the rain gutters and later into creeks and streams already choked with raw sewage. The sinks in most restrooms, including those in restaurants, were without soap.
 
The border crossings were an especially absurd circus of chaos and inefficiency. When arriving at a border crossing, you are first greeted by “helpers” – young men familiar with the bureaucratic mess that awaits you and who are eager to guide you through it. They flock to me like seagulls fighting for a french-fry tossed on the beach. Before I even come to a stop they crowd alongside and in front of the moving bike – flapping their arms, squawking in English and Spanish, and jockeying for the US or Canadian money they’re sure I’m carrying. They force the bike to a stop, and their combined clamoring creates a cacophony that I can barely understand. “NO,” I yell. “Back off!” “Did you hear me?! Back off!” One guy never gets the message. One guy always hangs on. He’s the one I hire to shepherd me along; without him I’d never make it through.
 
Before I enter the next country, I am required to exit the one I’d just ridden through. Immigration wants to stamp my passport. Customs wants to confirm that I did not leave my motorcycle in their country, in effect having imported it illegally. This out-processing is comparatively straightforward and only requires a visit to two or three separate agencies in two separate buildings and can be completed in 30 to 45 minutes.
 
Entering the next country is where to hassles escalate. After 30 minutes in line, assuming that everyone else has even organized themselves into a line rather than a simple mob, I learn that immigration requires three copies of my passport but is not able to make those copies themselves. They direct me to a separate building where someone photocopies my passport for a nickel a pop. Back in line now, I present my passport and copies when I learn that I am required to pay a small entrance fee or tax in the local currency of the country I’ve yet to enter. This is when the money changers get involved.
 
Since every country in Latin America uses a different currency, you change money at every border. Banks are typically absent from most border crossings, and this gap is filled by money changers. These are men with fists and fanny-packs full of multi-colored bouquets of currency. You tell them how much you have and in what currency and into what currency you would like it to be changed. Knowing your Spanish numbers is very helpful here, but most of these men carry calculators on which they’ll show you what they’re willing to buy and for how much. They usually low-ball you so it helps to know before you talk to them how much your Pesos are worth in Quetzels. I found my iPhone invaluable in this regard. “Travelling through some dusty little stink-hole and need to change Honduran Lempiras into Nicaraguan Oros? There’s an app for that.”  U.S. dollars remain the preferred currency for bribes.
I get back in line, pay my fee, get my pasport stamped and move on to customs or aduana. Here the same process of forms, copies, stamps, and signatures repeats all over again but now with my motorcycle, rather than me, the object of attention. They want to see the bike, inspect it, record the VIN, compare it to the VIN on the custom’s form from the country I just left, sell me insurance, and spray the tires with some sort of pesticide/fungicide/cleanser. Men and women in three-dollar jobs stand as gatekeepers to filthy garbage-strewn chaotic countries determining whether or not you and your bike are suitable for entry.  All the while little boys with battered wooden boxes ask to shine your boots, or elderly beggars approach you with their wrinkled and shaking out-stretched hands.

This insanity doesn’t stop at the border. I was issued a ticket in Panama for making an illegal U-turn where I saw no sign indicating that I couldn’t. The cop told me that I had to pay the ticket or I would be stopped at the airport and not be permitted to leave the country. Given that the ticket was issued to my passport rather than my driver’s license, I thought this might be a real possibility. I’ll spare you the tedious story, but it took me four hours and visits to five different locations before I was able to pay the $75 ticket and get a stamped receipt.

So many of the people I met throughout Central America were wonderfully kind, helpful, and friendly. I am very fortunate to have met them. However, I can’t shake the feeling that they fully deserve the prevailing living conditions to the extent that they’re able to do something about them yet still willing to put up with the status quo.

Admittedly, these opinions are based on what was essentially little more than an extended road trip through foreign lands.  Others may come away from time spent in Central America with alternate views and opinions based on experiences unique to them.  The route I followed, and the manner in which I did it,  gave me a far greater exposure to Central America than if I’d simply arrived for vacation in some resort via the comparative magic of air travel.  Equally, anyone who has lived, worked, or study in these countries for an extended period of time will have considerably more informed opinions than the ones I’ve shared here.

I also greatly underestimated the isolation and loneliness brought about by being unable to communicate with almost everyone I met. Four weeks and five-thousand miles spent only on the periphery of the world around me was a rough experience that I’d rather not repeat.

In the end, I rode across a beautiful suspension bridge and looked down into a thick green valley to see a muddy brown river filled with – ‘Are those…? Those are…? They’re fuckin’ cargo ships! Those are ocean-going cargo ships? This is the Canal. I made it! I fucking made it!’ I’m screaming inside my helmet, pumping my left fist in the air, and raising both hands as my Triumph and I rolled across the Centennial Bridge to complete a solo month-long, 4,824 mile journey through seven countries. I’m done. I’m going home.

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  • heathercunningham

    Jim,

    As your only friend (that I know of) that has lived a year and a half in Central America and has relatives from that part of the world, I feel the need to comment on your most recent post. I thought about waiting until you had returned and settled a bit, but to be honest, I’d prefer to comment before your blog readers take a look at your last posting and have your frustration as their final impression of Central America.

    I can remember the first few months I lived in Honduras. I had very little preparation to help me understand the culture I was entering, and I had a very difficult time. I was actually quoted in a report as saying the place I worked was the “most disorganized organization I had ever seen.” (Years later, I was totally embarrassed by that comment.) My enjoyment of alcohol, cigarettes, and enjoyment of the bar scene (all big No-Nos for Honduran women) were grossly misinterpreted as promiscuity by the conservative and religious people I was working with. I actually almost got kicked out for this, and I had never even so much as laid a finger (or a lip!) on a member of the opposite sex. I was completely devastated as to how I was being perceived through Honduran eyes, and unaware of how my American cultural priorities of “efficiency” and “organization” were not has high on the list of most Hondurans. My point here being that one’s culture and values really define how you see all of this stuff. Speaking a different language – one that you have difficulty communicating in, makes negotiating all of this even more of an obstacle.

    There was so much to Honduran culture that I only understood over time. Some of it had to do with Central American culture itself, and some of it had to do with mentality of people who grow up in a “culture of poverty” that is reality to many countries in that part of the world. Its sad and scary to think that the conditions you saw – the garbage, the overly-eager “handlers” willing to do anything to make a dollar and get you through customs – are the norm in more places than we might think – particularly in smaller countries in Africa, Latin America, and Asia. Part of this is widespread poverty (probably not too different from Appalachian America), but also lack of access to quality education, and enough corruption to prevent the upholding of the rule of law. Its tough to break out of all of that. But it scares me to think that part of you believes that they deserve the poverty they must live. Some people, like you say, do try to rise above it. But its so hard to do. And extreme financial success in that part of the world tends to isolate people, as they have to work very hard to protect what they have. I think people that do well financially tend to share their success much more with their extended families than most Americans do – whereas we value individual success, Central Americans would value sharing the wealth much more.

    A confederation of Central American countries has been tried multiple times over the past 200 years. I think a lot of people would agree with you that changing money and customs procedures would be a lot more efficient if a confederation was formed. But efficiency is an American value, not a Central American one. So good luck there. But if you are looking for a place to spend some time where personal warmth and relationships are valued more than efficiency, than my money would be on Central America over the good ole’ US of A every time.

    Anyway, sorry to hear the end of your trip beat you up so much. Congratulations on the ride of a lifetime, and an adventure you will never forget. Thanks for bringing the rest of us along.

    Vaya con dios,
    Heather

  • heathercunningham

    Jim,

    As your only friend (that I know of) that has lived a year and a half in Central America and has relatives from that part of the world, I feel the need to comment on your most recent post. I thought about waiting until you had returned and settled a bit, but to be honest, I’d prefer to comment before your blog readers take a look at your last posting and have your frustration as their final impression of Central America.

    I can remember the first few months I lived in Honduras. I had very little preparation to help me understand the culture I was entering, and I had a very difficult time. I was actually quoted in a report as saying the place I worked was the “most disorganized organization I had ever seen.” (Years later, I was totally embarrassed by that comment.) My enjoyment of alcohol, cigarettes, and enjoyment of the bar scene (all big No-Nos for Honduran women) were grossly misinterpreted as promiscuity by the conservative and religious people I was working with. I actually almost got kicked out for this, and I had never even so much as laid a finger (or a lip!) on a member of the opposite sex. I was completely devastated as to how I was being perceived through Honduran eyes, and unaware of how my American cultural priorities of “efficiency” and “organization” were not has high on the list of most Hondurans. My point here being that one’s culture and values really define how you see all of this stuff. Speaking a different language – one that you have difficulty communicating in, makes negotiating all of this even more of an obstacle.

    There was so much to Honduran culture that I only understood over time. Some of it had to do with Central American culture itself, and some of it had to do with mentality of people who grow up in a “culture of poverty” that is reality to many countries in that part of the world. Its sad and scary to think that the conditions you saw – the garbage, the overly-eager “handlers” willing to do anything to make a dollar and get you through customs – are the norm in more places than we might think – particularly in smaller countries in Africa, Latin America, and Asia. Part of this is widespread poverty (probably not too different from Appalachian America), but also lack of access to quality education, and enough corruption to prevent the upholding of the rule of law. Its tough to break out of all of that. But it scares me to think that part of you believes that they deserve the poverty they must live. Some people, like you say, do try to rise above it. But its so hard to do. And extreme financial success in that part of the world tends to isolate people, as they have to work very hard to protect what they have. I think people that do well financially tend to share their success much more with their extended families than most Americans do – whereas we value individual success, Central Americans would value sharing the wealth much more.

    A confederation of Central American countries has been tried multiple times over the past 200 years. I think a lot of people would agree with you that changing money and customs procedures would be a lot more efficient if a confederation was formed. But efficiency is an American value, not a Central American one. So good luck there. But if you are looking for a place to spend some time where personal warmth and relationships are valued more than efficiency, than my money would be on Central America over the good ole’ US of A every time.

    Anyway, sorry to hear the end of your trip beat you up so much. Congratulations on the ride of a lifetime, and an adventure you will never forget. Thanks for bringing the rest of us along.

    Vaya con dios,
    Heather

  • francisco

    congrats jimm……. happy for you men.

  • francisco

    congrats jimm……. happy for you men.

  • Jeff

    Sissy.

  • Jeff

    Sissy.

  • Colleen

    Glad to hear you’re home ward bound..also gotta give props to Heather. She makes several excellent points. Especially references to culture and world view. My limited experience with the cycle of poverty goes something like this . Poverty diminishes people, systems, cultures and generations ..so sadly true – generations with the speed, strength and pull of raging flood waters–and there are few to zero branches or boats to cling to. I’ve come to realize that one reason many Americans are frustrated with what seems to be acceptance of poverty comes from an American experience of poverty/wealth. In the U.S if you really really work hard you can rise above your original station in life. Why ? Because in this wonderful country we have the guarantee to an education a guarantee !! It is illegal to keep your kid home– you go to jail if your kid does not go to school. The grants for education and job training are nearly endless …hell every major town – every town in our country has a library, you can walk in and carry out any thing you want to know for nothing ! Born poor in Africa ? Central America ? …Guess what ? The right to and experience of education/knowledge — free knowledge no less, floats around our country like sunshine. It was-is and will be. Americans can not imagine it’s disappearance or a life removed from the possibility of learning and opportunity any more than Chris can imagine being me or me him.

  • Colleen

    Glad to hear you’re home ward bound..also gotta give props to Heather. She makes several excellent points. Especially references to culture and world view. My limited experience with the cycle of poverty goes something like this . Poverty diminishes people, systems, cultures and generations ..so sadly true – generations with the speed, strength and pull of raging flood waters–and there are few to zero branches or boats to cling to. I’ve come to realize that one reason many Americans are frustrated with what seems to be acceptance of poverty comes from an American experience of poverty/wealth. In the U.S if you really really work hard you can rise above your original station in life. Why ? Because in this wonderful country we have the guarantee to an education a guarantee !! It is illegal to keep your kid home– you go to jail if your kid does not go to school. The grants for education and job training are nearly endless …hell every major town – every town in our country has a library, you can walk in and carry out any thing you want to know for nothing ! Born poor in Africa ? Central America ? …Guess what ? The right to and experience of education/knowledge — free knowledge no less, floats around our country like sunshine. It was-is and will be. Americans can not imagine it’s disappearance or a life removed from the possibility of learning and opportunity any more than Chris can imagine being me or me him.

  • JJA1776

    Hey Francisco, You still out there buddy? Hello……

    You can reach me at JJA1776@comcast.net

    Regards,
    Jim

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